Photo Album: A Project From Start to Finish
Click on the image below to see a photographic journal of a project from start to finish. To advance the slide show, move your mouse over the image and click “next” or "previous" and "close" to leave the slideshow. The journal doesn’t show every step in the process, but it illustrates the attention to detail and craftsmanship required during the labor-intensive process of creating a unique, soundly constructed piece of furniture that will endure lifetimes of use.
This pedestal table design approved by the client called for an urn-shaped column having a maximum diameter of 7”. A solid piece of walnut of that size would almost certainly contain unacceptable hidden defects (such as voids and knots) that would be exposed by the lathe. Attempting to turn the column from such a piece would very likely be a waste of time and materials.
To avoid those problems, I glued up several pieces of walnut to form the blank for the column, carefully orienting each piece for the best grain match.
After the glue cured the column was turned and marked for reeds.
Using a router mounted on the lathe, I carved the reeds into the urn.
The next step was to make the sculpted legs that would be dovetailed into the base of the pedestal.
I roughed out the feet on the bandsaw.
I used a shop-made plywood template, a router, and some handwork to refine the shape so all four legs would be identical and conform to the gentle contours of the design.
I used a multi-router to cut the dovetails into the ends of the legs.
Such a joint is quite strong, but due to the stress that would be exerted on these joints I made and inset a steel plate into the base to provide additional support for the legs.
The rough blank for the metal reinforcing plate in the vise
The dovetailed legs were then fit into corresponding mortises in the base of the column and secured with the steel plate.
I again used a shop-made plywood template to shape the tabletop supports
I constructed and used a jig for the tablesaw to cut the corresponding slots for the tabletop supports.
For the circular tabletop, I carefully selected boards for matching grain and color and drew a rough chalk line to ensure correct location and orientation of each board during glue up.
I first glued up the top boards in sections…
...and then glued the sections together.
After cleaning up glue residue and sanding the top blank…
...I cut the rough outline of the top with a jigsaw.
I used a router and a full-size MDF template to cut the circle to final diameter.
I have marked the position of the top on the base and the table is ready for rough assembly.
The last major operation in constructing the piece was making the apron for the table. I glued up walnut laminates I made on the table saw for both halves of the apron and clamped them to a form so the apron would hold its shape.
I secured the apron to the top using table clips that will allow the top to expand and contract with changes in humidity to prevent warping and splitting of the top.
Then came hours of sanding and five hand-rubbed coats of finish.
After final assembly, the table is ready to be delivered to the client’s home.
Design and Build Process
If you are considering commissioning a custom piece, and if you think I might be the one to build it, please contact me to arrange for a preliminary consultation. There is no charge for such a consultation, after which I will attempt to provide you with a cost estimate, the accuracy of which will depend in part upon the clarity and specificity with which you describe your project.
Once you and I agree on a design, I order the raw lumber needed to construct the piece, unless I happen to have sufficient quantity of the desired wood species on hand.
When the lumber arrives, I check the moisture content (MC), which ideally should be approximately 8%. Even kiln-dried lumber is affected by relative humidity, and can absorb moisture during storage and transport. If necessary, I acclimate wood in the shop (which is centrally heated and cooled) until the MC reaches an acceptable level. Depending on the MC, this can take up to a few weeks. Skipping this step invites problems, such as warping and poor finish.
I then mill the lumber to the rough dimensions dictated by the design, and again allow a period of acclimatization to insure dimensional stability before machining to finish dimensions and assembling your piece. You are welcome to visit the shop during construction to see your work in progress.
When I have completed construction and final sanding, I apply an appropriate finish. Unless you specify a different finish, I typically use a hand-rubbed oil-and-varnish finish because of its good appearance, durability, and ease of repair.